Water Purification Basics:Part Three

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Copyright

By

Dr. Charles S. Brocato

2011

Previously, we discussed the procedure for drawing water, super-
chlorination, pre-filtering, aeration of the water, flocculation, then its removal, following with sedimentation, and filtration and chlorination again.

We further discussed one thing that is either not emphasized, or emphasized enough, which is to Pre-test and Post-test the water. Pre-test the water to see what you are dealing with in terms of organic materials, non organic and inorganic chemicals, and this includes pathogenic organisms and also how acidic or basic the water is.

We post-test the water after treatment to ascertain whether our procedure was thorough and properly done. It is easy to introduce errors into your water processing for pure, potable (drinking) water, that you generally will not be aware of. This can be due to hurrying, lack of proper sanitation procedure, sloppy technique. And the way to catch this is to pre-test and post-
test.

There are many out there thinking that because their well water comes from deep wells, it is clean and potable. The earth is changing and there may be tunnels to their water source whereby it may become contaminated, whereas the tunnels did not exist before. Hence, the need to test one's water on a regular basis. Often times, regardless of whatever the sources of water, it may become or is contaminated and is thereby 'feeding' this contamination over to the one(s) consuming the water.

These people's thoughts are that if they do not come down with overt water-borne disease or illness; then, it is not the water causing the problem. Often times, an existing dysfunction, such as joint problems, simply gradually worsen, and they and their physicians never consider the personal lifestyle the person has adopted and consider the illness an ongoing entity and worsening, while, in actuality, it is the contaminates in their drinking water generating more problems in their joints or brains, because of gradual accumulation of heavy metals or other contaminates settling in their joints and/or nervous tissue.

This is where chelation therapy may do some good if it is found one's water has been/is contaminated for some time and they are having problems as described that are worsening. One can only make an assumption on the time line. However, if the physical problems one has worsen, and got worse since they have been on well-water, or processing their own water, leakage and other problems can creep into the pumps, filters, and piping and machinery, such that contamination is a gradual result.

And if the water tests positive for contaminates, it is a 'goodly' bet, your water may be at fault or partially at fault and exacerbating one's health problem, as the body is constantly under attack from this poor quality of water and thus, eroding the quality of life for one.

We give the following procedure, as in Water Basics & More: Part II, again, as the procedural process is of utmost importance. Do not short-cut, regardless of what you may have been told by friends. You will understand why as you read this document and ascertain more information and knowledge in Part IV, due to be received in your mailbox July 1, 2011, and Part V, August 1, 2011:

Dr. "B" Recommends The Following That Imitates

A Municipal Treatment Water System In Miniature

1.	Draw raw water, after having cleared away as much debris as possible.

2.	Test pH of water for acidity. If not having an acidity of 4 to 5, acidify with vinegar, lemon juice (standardized), or, which we find best, powdered vitamin C. It can be used not only for acidifying the water, but also for ingesting a little in clean water twice a day. You can even use citric acid if you have it stored for canning. You can also use vitamin C for canning to reduce certain microbial growths that do not tolerate an acidic environment. Standardized lemon juice—if you don't mind the lemon flavored water—such as ReaLemon Juice, as it is standardized.

3.	Stir the water. Test the pH once more. It should be definitely weakly acidic or stronger.

4.	Add appropriate amount of chlorine to a gallon of water (40 drops to a gallon). However, we want a residual chlorine level, so we do Superchlorination, which is nothing more than adding much more chlorine, about an extra 40 to 50 drops more, so that when the chlorine reacts with particulate matter, we have residual chlorine left over to kill the germs.

5.	Now add, for 1 gallon, 1/8 teaspoon of Alum (Aluminum Sulfate) and stir. Let sit no longer than about 30 minutes, or material such as aluminum or other materials tied up in the gel will be released and some to much goes back into the solution. At this point of Coagulation/Flocculation, add CaO from below (a tablespoon plus a pinch, in a 1.2 gallons of raw water, you form an excellent floc.). You can also use Copperas, ferric sulfate, Fe2(SO4)3 , given below. Following directions for Coagulation below.

6.	Take another empty, clean bucket, fitted with a towel, with a depression in the center, such that the towel forms a small cone into the bucket. Tie a string, a cord, a small clothesline rope, or take a small bungee cord with hooks on both ends and hook it around the towel outside the collection bucket, and pour the raw water slowly through this prepared bucket with the towel. The cord will keep the terry towel in place.

7.	We now suggest, as you saw pictures on our Water Page, see at end of that page, and given here again, to aerate this water to remove volatile organic chemicals by placing this water into a sprayer and spraying in a long arc, allowing it to fall into a clean wader pool. This also oxygenates the water such that the oxygen, a strong oxidant, will combine with iron and other compounds making them easier to remove. (Procedures in municipal water plants may differ in approach, but all incorporate these ideas along the purification process. Generally, a municipal water supply plant (a) draws raw water from their raw water reservoir, then it goes into (b) spray aeration, then to (c) mixing chamber where flocculating agents are added. From here, (d) the raw water is moved into a flocculation tank where the flocculating agents are churned in the water and large jellylike masses, or flocs, form. Then, after flocs form, (e) the water is moved to a sedimentation tank. The clarified (clear) water is now allowed to go from the top of the sedimentation tank, leaving the sediment in the bottom, to the filtration unit and from there, chlorine (chlorination) is added as the water travels to a storage unit for distribution. The water is now potable.)

8.	Now take this water – if you have an assistant, this is easier – take up the pool and pour (or dip it out) the water into your filtration bucket, that has been prepared with holes, generally drilled from the outside bottom to the inside bottom, an aquarium pad, sterilized pebbles, including pad on bottom, sand, and clay, or fuller's earth, on top. Or you can use a sterilized cloth separating each layer that rises to the top and on the outside. It may be cheesecloth if you so desire. We recommend lint-free large cup towels.

9.	Next, we run various dipsticks, listed for nickle, manganese, iron, pH and nitrate. If the pH is not at 7, adjust up (using bicarbonate of soda) or down (a pinch of vitamin C), stir, test add vitamin C, etc., to bring it either way close to 7.

Note:

Domestic Water Treatment, by Lehr, Gass, Pettyjohnk, & DeMarre, write on pages 74-75:

Nitrate concentrations in water are reported either as nitrate (NO3) or as nitrate-nitrogen (as N). This system is confusing, so caution is urged when examining an analysis, because the concentration of nitrate reported as NO3 is considerably different from that reported as nitrate-
nitrogen (as N). For example, 45 mg/L of NO3 is approximately equal to 10 mg/L of nitrate (as N). To convert NO3 to N, multiply the NO3 concentration by 0.23; and to convert N to NO3, multiply the N concentration by 4.43. An understanding of this conversion is essential, because the recommended limit of nitrate (as N) is 10 mg/L; but as NO3, it is 45 mg/L.

However, it appears the units of mg/L have been changed to 'parts per million,' ppm, because J&H Berge, Inc., The Lab Mart, where we have given you the address and internet address to order test items for your water sources, gives their test strips for Nitrate Nitrogen in ppm.

Therefore, in application of this knowledge, you will have 10 ppm of nitrate (as N) and 40 ppm as nitrate, NO3. The 10 and 40 are the same, only the units have changed.

See Hot Link. They write:

"Nitrate water standards

"Nitrates become a concern when they exceed the maximum safe standards established by public health agencies for safe drinking water by humans. The maximum standard for nitrate, when it is reported as nitrate-nitrogen, represents the proportion of nitrogen in the nitrate molecule and is set at 10 ppm. These two values are equivalent. They do not reflect more, or less, nitrate in water, but simply a difference in how nitrate is reported. Therefore, when interpreting a water analysis for nitrate, you must determine how the nitrate concentration is being reported so that the correct health standard can be applied

"Table 1

Maximum safe levels for nitrate in drinking water

Reported as

Maximum value in parts per million1

Nitrate-Nitrogen	10
Nitrate	45

1Example
One ppm of sugar in water would be equivalent to one ounce of sugar in 7,813 gallons of water.

The initial draft of this publication was written by Karen DeFelice, former associate extension agronomist; Nyle Wollenhaupt, former state extension agronomist; and Daryl Buchholz, state extension agronomist. This material is based upon work supported by the United States Department of Agriculture, Extension Service, under special project number 89-EWQI-1-9203.

WQ258, reviewed October 1993"

The Lab Mart, on the Nitrate Nitrogen bottle's label, instructs one to subtract Nitrite PPm's (nitrogen nitrogen) from the Nitrate/Nitrate PPM's (Nitrate/Nitrite Nitrogen) to get the proper PPM's of Nitrate Nitrogen.

The effect or result should be 45mg/L of NO3 now given as 45 PPM; or lower.

10.	If all the tests come out negative and the pH is at or near 7, you should still add chlorine but first adjust the pH to 4 to 5 plus to control any errant microbes, and/or because of sloppy technique. Chlorine works best in a slightly acid environment. Stir. Let rest for 10 minutes. Pour it through your Aqua Rain water filter. The latter gives added protection and does not wear down your Aqua Rain water filtration unit, if you have one, or a "Big" (expensive) Burkey water filtration unit.

11.	However, Dr. "B" has a distillation unit known as the 'e-still'. You may be able to find one on e-bay, as they are not being made any longer. From here, place the pan of the distillation unit over an open fire and collect the distillate, which flows through a carbon filter. After so many gallons (30 or so gallons), boil the carbon to recharge it somewhat, though it isn't under pressure or high enough heat, but it can be reused, or simply replace that carbon after so many uses (30 to 40 gallons) with new GAC (granulated activated carbon). Or pour through a Pur® or Brita® filter.

Note:

Distillation is the process whereby "water is treated by vaporizing and then recondensing. Dissolved minerals are removed. Some bottled distilled water sold states that it is 'sodium-free,' which is true. It involves boiling water and then collecting the vapor that condenses back to water. The condensed vapor will not include salt and other impurities. To distill (for expediency measures) fill a pot halfway with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot's lid so that the cup will hang right side up when the lid is upside-down and boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled." —Global Handbook On Food And Water Safety. See Expediency Distillation below.

One problem exists here, however. This 'e-still' unit is not ventilated to remove, as the distillate flows over, the volatile organic chemicals, and other chlorine by-products that may be formed will flow over too. Hence, simply move to the side a little bit, the boiler pan, leaving a small crack between the boiler pan (ventilating) and the rest of the unit. Then enjoy real, good tasting, pure water.

Let's Talk Chemistry

Calcium Oxide (Quicklime), CaO

If you have been reading our Chicken Series and have gotten laying hens, then you have this. You know a number of things that it is used for; but here, we will give you another use for it. It is also called Anhydrous Lime. Another name for it is calcium oxide, as given in the topic sentence above.

You know from the Chicken Series, and if you have followed through with it, CaO or quicklime, or anhydrous lime, is a white amorphous solid. What you don't know is that it is practically infusible (it won't melt). When heated to incandescence in the oxy-hydrogen flame, it produces a brilliant white light called the 'limelight.' We suspect this is where the term 'limelight' came from. You are surrounded with a brilliant white light.

Quicklime is a basic substance in which water has been driven out forming an anhydride. Thus, it can readily react with water to form Slaked Lime, Ca(OH)2 (Calcium Hydroxide), and this combination with water releases a great deal of heat. This process is called the Slaking of Lime.

CaO + H2O Ca(OH)2 + 15,300 calories

Calcium hydroxide is an inexpensive strong base which is frequently used to neutralize acids. Remember this latter part and strongly affix it in your memory banks. By adding CaO in this amount: a tablespoon plus a pinch in 1.2 gallons of raw water, you form an excellent floc (see turbidity below).

Important Uses:

•	Freshly slaked lime is treated with chlorine in the manufacture of bleaching powder.

•	Slaked lime, with sand and water, is used to make mortar, the material that holds bricks together.

•	And note this: Limewater is used in medicine to supply calcium in the diet, and in the laboratory to test for carbon dioxide. It is also used to soften temporary hard water.

•	Slaked lime is used to neutralize acid soils.

•	Calcium hydroxide is used to remove hairs from hides in the tanning of leather.

•	Milk of lime is used as a whitewash. Whitewash is a suspension of calcium hydroxide in water that is sometimes called 'Milk of Lime.'

Let's Talk Water

Turbidity:

A process whereby soil particulates (silt) or other fine matter are held in suspension in water, giving an opacity to the water. This cloudiness holds in suspension dissolved gasses somewhat and makes an excellent background for some microbial life to avoid detection by antimicrobial materials by serving as a means to tie up those chemicals which can serve to destroy microbes. This is one reason for Superchlorination.

Just a speck of soil in the water will contain millions of microorganisms as well as other organic matter referred to as Background Organic Material

(BOMs). Turbidity presents multiple-causation of complex problems of a chemical and physical nature.

As we have given previously and will give again in this document, rapidly moving may be the best as raw water is concerned so as not to have as much 'flotsam' and other debris sitting about. However, this water that is on the surface of the planet, being continually agitated — moving water, will hold silt and BOMs in suspension for greater lengths of time as opposed to that which is rather stagnant. The stagnant water allows much BOMs and silt to settle out as if in a settling tank or basin.

Rapidly moving water that is breaking the surface with much foam and splashes, as in 'rapids,' will aerate the water for you and makes certain minerals such as iron and manganese easier to remove with flocculation materials.

We have recommended Alum, Al2(SO4)3, which dates back to the early Egyptians, but there are still other compounds that remove suspended particles, especially large ones, better. This is polymer compounds which are less costly than Alum and are more effective. Polymers are substances having large molecules consisting of repeated units (the monomers).

Poly(many)mers(structural units) are substances that have macromolecules composed of many repeating molecular structural units (known as 'mers'). A large number of naturally occurring substances are polymers, including rubber and many substances based on glucose, such as the polysaccharides (sugars), and starches (in plants, e.g., wheat flour, rice flour, etc.) and glycogen (in animals). Proteins, nucleic acids, and inorganic macromolecular substances, such as rock-forming silicates, can all be considered as polymers.)—See Oxford Dictionary of Science, Oxford University Press.

Note:

Many of you who have gotten into food storage and have been—we've heard from you—wondering and complaining about all that flour you have. Now! You know what to do with it if you don't eat it or have it taken away from you by force!

Check with your water supply company, if one is in your area, for polymers. By now, though, you know what a polymer is and can save money, and store some extra flour, or whole wheat berries; grind them up when as needed; then toss in the flour and bran and follow accordingly as given. And you can also eat the extra flour if need be!

Still, you can use in conjunction with Alum; or, separately, Ferric chloride (FeCl3) and ferric sulfate, Fe2(SO4)3. It is known as Hi-Yield Copperas. These latter two used either alone, separately, or separately with Alum and are also good coagulants. Check with your local hardware store for such items, and while there ask if they have 'Polymer compounds' for use with coagulating silt in raw water. Careful, read the label of what they propose. You can probably rest assured they do not know much or anything about water processing for potable water. You do not want to be using rat poison and then have to remove that.

However, simply ask if they have 'Tramfloc' and follow the instructions. But, since most things can cause some contact irritation problems, you can bypass this and use something you already have in your kitchen: White or Whole-Wheat flour, and maybe, rice flour that is already processed. It is a polymer. Throw in a small handful; or if that is not sufficient for you, simply place a 1/2 cup to 1/3 cup of flour in the raw gallon plus of water and stir. You now have used a polymer made of carbohydrate. And this polymer will not cause eye irritation nor irritate your skin if you use it correctly and not get it into the eyes.

Note:

Minute Precooked Rice™ is what we recommend for storage, as it is precooked and will grind to a flour very quickly! Voil ! You have rice flour!

Whichever you use, stir, let settle for 30 to 40 minutes; then, filter through a terry towel as given in the previous document, Part II, and further down.

This is why we gave in the last document on water, April 1, 2011, 'Some other interesting substances have been improvised for use as coagulants: 'Almonds, beans, nuts, toasted biscuits, and Indian meal.' History does not record that the almonds and nuts, beans too, were ground to a raw meal, and then used. But, this undoubtedly is what was done as the surface area of the product was increased such that more 'flotsam' would be bound and taken to the bottom of the settling basin used.

Trisodium phosphate (V), also known as Sodium orthophosphate, Na3PO4, is found in your local hardware store and makes up for some of the deficiencies in your washing detergents, both for your clothes washing machine and your dish washing machine. It is not a flocculant as such, but will be a necessity when doing hand washing as the SuperStructure goes down. One of its primary purposes is to combine (the sodium) with clay in ponds, causing it to swell and thus, seal the bottoms and sides to retain the water from leaking out into the ground. If it does the latter, the sodium may well-bind with the clay particles in solution of a raw water, making it heavier; thus forming a floc and possibly sinking to the bottom of the sedimentation tank; or, at least making it easier to filter through a towel. It was so for this author when it was tried.

This chemical, Trisodium phosphate (V) , used to come in detergent boxes and for laundry and dishwashers. "Big Brother" has had it removed on the fallacious grounds it is making algae grow in excess (this is from fertilizer runoffs mainly into lakes, rivers, and streams) and eventually causing a dead zone by causing oxygen depletion. Hence, marine life dies.

One-fourth of a cup of trisodium phosphate, a powerful rinsing agent, will result in really clean clothes, of the type you recall of old, and in clean, sparkling dishes with no oily film.

Since the government and environmentalists went after "phosphates." The result has been spotted, greasy dishes and greasy, not-quite-clean clothes, with very little, if any, change in the environment.

Right now you can easily buy your own trisodium phosphate to correct the problem, but the day is coming when you can no longer buy the stuff without government permission. Dr. "B" suggests to add some boxes of trisodium phosphate to your storage, now...do not wait, along with your boxes of "Washing Soda."

This is what http://www.flocculants.info/ has to say:

Flocculation by definition means a process in which individual particles of a suspension form aggregates. In the water treatment industry, the terms coagulation and flocculation imply different mechanisms. Flocculants consist of various molecular weight anionic, nonionic and cationic polymers.

They are used to increase the efficiency of settling, clarification, filtration and centrifugation operations.

FLOCCULATION

FLOCCULATION is used to describe the action of polymeric materials which form bridges between individual particles. Bridging occurs when segments of a polymer chain adsorb on different particles and help particles aggregate. Flocculants carry active groups with a charge which will counterbalance the charge of the particles. Flocculants adsorb on particles and cause destabilization either by bridging or charge neutralization.

An anionic flocculant will usually react against a positively charged suspension (positive zeta potential). That is the case of salts and metallic hydroxides.

A cationic flocculant will react against a negatively charged suspension (negative zeta potential) like silica or organic substances.

However the rule is not general. For example, anionic (WebMasters: positively charged) flocculants agglomerate clays which are electronegative.

Three groups of flocculants are currently used:

MINERAL FLOCCULANTS

They are colloidal substances. Adsorption and charge neutralization play some part in the flocculation mechanism. They are:

activated silica.

certain colloidal clays (such as bentonite),

certain metallic hydroxides with a polymeric structure (alum, ferric

hydroxide)

NATURAL FLOCCULANTS

They are water soluble anionic, cationic or nonionic polymers. Nonionic polymers adsorb on the suspended particles. The most common natural flocculants are:

the starch derivatives: mostly pregelatinized hence water-soluble. They are

corn or potato-starches. They can be natural starches, anionic oxidized

starches or amine treated cationic starches. The use of this class of

products has decreased in water treatment but remains important in the

paper industry.

the polysaccharides: usually guar gums and mostly used in acid medium.

the alginates: anionic and used in potable water treatment.

SYNTHETIC FLOCCULANTS

Polyacrylamides

The most common polymers are those based on polyacrylamide, which is a nonionic polymer. Their effect is due to bridging between particles by polymer chains.

Polymers can be given anionic character by copolymerizing acrylamide with acrylic acid. Cationic polymers are prepared by copolymerizing acrylamide with a cationic monomer. All available acrylamide based polymers have a specific amount of ionic monomer giving a certain degree of ionic character.

They have a specific average molecular weight (i.e. chain length) and a given molecular distribution.

For each suspension, a certain degree of anionic, cationic or nonionic character is beneficial. Usually, the intrinsic flocculating power increases with the molecular weight.

Polyacrylamides have the highest molecular weight among the synthesized industrial chemicals in the range of 10-20 millions. Other polymers display specific properties and are used under specific conditions.

They are mostly:

Polyethylene-imines

Polyamides-amines

Polyamines

Polyethylene-oxide

Sulfonated compounds

You want to remove this turbidity, which will also remove some to much microbial life and much background organic materials (BOMs) and thus make the raw water easier to process into potable water. Clarification involves the clearing of much opacity, and with it goes some microbes and dissolved soil and debris. This is done by adding a coagulant to the raw water and letting it sit for a while. For 1 to 2 gallons of raw water, after the coagulant(s) are added, and this also depends on pH, let the water sit for about 30 minutes or so, depending upon how much water you have.

The coagulant(s) are stirred and allowed to rest to capture as much turbidity as possible; after sedimentation or allowing the resulting floc to fall to the bottom, the water is poured or siphoned off as given in the last Water Series. You have now removed much turbidity and cloudiness.

Keep this in mind, many surface waters have a pH that may be acidic. And when you find iron in the raw water, often manganese travels with it. It's like finding Gold; there is practically always some silver or traces of silver, traveling with it. With the raw water, Superchlorinate, let rest; then follow through as given in the previous discussion on water and in what follows. With the water being acidic, and you find manganese present; you must make it basic.

You'll understand shortly how, to make the water basic and at the same time using another excellent coagulant, and why we gave that bit of chemistry earlier.

Considering that iron (Fe) when present in surface waters, Manganese (Mn) often travels with it. Iron makes up approximately 5 percent of the earth's crust. Therefore, in many places, ground waters have iron present in small quantities. It cause problems with plumbing, washing, and in cooking. Here's how: It can facilitate scale build up in steel pipes. Iron in water enhances Slime Bacteria growth. The bacteria use the iron in their life cycle. The slick sticky surfaces where this iron water accumulates, such as toilet tanks is another place where slime bacteria can accumulate. This gelatinous red slime sometimes found near water well casing tops is a target indicator that you have too much iron in your water well.

When you wash in water that may be clear but containing some iron, the washed products, the laundry, will appear brown.

When cooking, iron imparts a bad taste in coffee and tea. And causes potatoes, cooked in iron water that may appear clear—again why you want to test your water—to turn black! Not an organoleptic pleasure sensation in your 'white' potato salad. If you have whiskey on the 'rocks' and the rocks are made from this iron containing water, your good whiskey not only looks like 'Caca d'Oia,' but tastes like it too! It turns good whiskey downright black! Not a good organoleptic sensation. Especially, when you may need a lift with all this hell one will be going through. What a waste of good whiskey!

Remember! Granulated Activated Charcoal (GAC) does not remove iron nor manganese very well. Only poorly.

Recall the chemistry from above concerning Calcium oxide (CaO) and Calcium hydroxide, Ca(OH)2, which is Slaked Lime. When you take calcium oxide and stir some into water, say in this case, a tablespoon or so in a 1.2 gallons of raw water, you form an excellent floc. It does not dissolve well in water — that is why it makes an excellent whitewash for fences, etc. — but forms a superb floc. Use goggles and neoprene gloves when performing this operation as CaO in water gives off considerable heat. After 30 minutes, an excellent floc is formed. The calcium hydroxide encourages particulate matter in the raw water to combine with it forming flocs. These smaller combined units of particulate matter tend to encourage the process, forming larger particles that settle to the bottom of your sedimentation bucket or tank.

When iron and manganese removal case studies were revealed, it showed:

The treatment process consisted of pre-and post-chlorination, coagulation and precipitation with Ca(OH)2. The Ca(OH)2 was the essence of the treatment, where Fe and Mn were removed by coagulation and precipitation in the sludge blanket in the solids contact unit. It was necessary to raise the pH value to 9.5 or so for 100 % removal of Mn.

The Ca(OH)2 raises the basicity to the basic value such that Mn can be removed easily. Our suggestion is to use Alum in combination with CaO in water (to form Ca(OH)2). If the raw water is exceptionally 'dirty' from "The world will be covered with corpses," then throw in some kitchen wheat flour

and/or rice flour and also add ferric chloride (FeCl3) and ferric sulfate, Fe2(SO4)3. Keep in mind: All of this is involved in flocculation or coagulation.

The Crux of The Matter:

It is extremely important to understand the crux of all we have given so far. You must clarify the water, and in doing so, you eliminate much foul odor, taste, and pathogenic microorganisms. But, because the water is clarified does not mean the water is potable. This is why we continue with the process of making raw water potable, which continues with, (1) after drawing the raw water, (2) clarifying it by means of coagulation which for our purposes, we consider flocculation. Then, it must be (3) aerated, (4) properly filtrated, and if you (5) distill the filtrated water, if you have reason to believe it is with dissolved chlorine by-products then reverse (4) and (5); doing (5) first, then (4) filtration next. (6) Chlorinated again in its final process.

Throughout all this, you must pre-test and post-test for various minerals and pH levels. The pH levels, as one can now ascertain, must be correct in order to do proper coagulation. And, knowing the pH of surface water you have drawn for processing, you can make adjustments such that it will be more expedient for removal of iron and manganese and other elements that may be contaminating water. (7) Then, do a final pH on the potable water. If it has a chlorine smell; or taste, Pour it through your Brita filter as given in the June 1, 2011, Water Basics and More!

Lime (CaO) and soda ash (washing soda, Na2CO3), a strong base with a pH of 11.0 and more, raises the pH value for rapid oxidation of the Mn+2 (Mn II) and subsequent precipitation. However, from the report this was taken, it is not clear why Lime and soda ash were both used, unless the water supply required softening.

The Nose Knows: Taste & Odors:

Various Organic materials can contribute to off-smells and off-tastes. These organic materials do not have to be visible to your eye to cause negative tastes and odors. Many tastes and odors in waters that we drink are generated from various organic compounds that react as individual molecules or, they can react in antagonistic, synergistic, or an additive manner.

The Chemistry of Water Treatment, 2nd Edition, by Faust and Aly, write:

Sources of these organics are many and diverse, but the majority originate from a manufacturing wastewater that has been discharged in an improper manner. The practice of chlorination in a water treatment plant frequently will enhance the organoleptic quality.

They further write under 'Biological Sources of Tastes And Odors':

Surface water supplies, especially those contained in reservoirs, frequently have a taste and odor problem due to such biological sources as actinomycetes and algae. Also, protozoans, fungi, and other aquatic microbiota have been implicated frequently. Descriptors of these tastes and odors range from fishy to earthy, woody, musty, hay-like, manure-
like, and geranium-like. The earthy-woody-musty tastes and odors, which are reported most frequently, are products of certain blue-green algae and actinomycetes, and a few fungi.

When you smell odors as follows, or, any odor in water, you know something has happened in/to it. It may or may not be healthy to drink; but, most definitely is offensive to your organoleptic senses. Faust and Aly write:

•	'Aromatic' — includes odors characteristic of fruits, vegetables, and spices, as well as objectionable odors, such as skunk or garlic.

These odors are produced by some pigmented flagellates and diatoms.

•	'Fishy' — which Palmer stated '...is produced often by the same algae that are responsible for the aromatic odors. The organisms generally are present in much larger numbers when the fishy odor is evident.'

•	'Grassy' — which is '...the most common odor produced by green algae and is apparent only when the organisms are present in large numbers. It is reported also for certain blue-green algae and occasionally for diatoms and pigmented flagellates.'

•	'Musty' and 'Earthy' — also described as 'potato-bin' and 'moldy.' Other odors, such as '...weedy, swampy, marshy, peat, strawlike and woody...' were thought to be possible modifications or combinations of the grassy and musty odors.

The authors of Domestic Water Treatment say:

There is no such thing as 'pure' water; all of it contains gases or minerals. Although these substances can be removed by treatment, the water may still retain some impurities and, in fact, the amount of dissolved minerals may be greater after the treatment than before.

'Pure as the driven snow' is a phrase that has been used with little question for decades. Only recently has the chemical quality of rain and snow been questioned, largely because of public awareness of the effects of air pollution. Examination of the data, however, reveals that the quality of precipitation, even before the evolution of human beings, was neither pure, nor clean. Air pollution was not a phenomenon that developed in the twentieth century.

The Home Water Supply: How to Find, Filter, Store, and Conserve It, points out:

"Acid rain is introduced by industrial wastes—smog-producing things like carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, and nitrous oxide we have released into the atmosphere. But droplets of polluted water can form around natural nuclei too, like dust, ice, volcanic ash, salt from sea spray, plant spores, and pollens. Forest fires, started by man only part of the time, create vast quantities of common but polluting atmospheric gases. Even the everyday decomposition of organic matter generates carbon dioxide which can fall out of the air as acid rain.

"...throughout the world 10 million people die of waterborne diseases each year.

"Any well, in fact, penetrates the protective seal of a groundwater source, and may offer a route for surface water to seep, unfiltered, into the earth. Too little effort is made to keep casings and spring boxes impervious to contaminating water from outside. Six hundred previously good wells around New York City have been closed in recent years because they've become hopelessly polluted. Where we tend to cluster, we tend to foul our water supply."

Remember what we wrote in the May 1, 2011, issue of The Chembio Update on Water Basics and More!, our cities are now a refugee situation with the overcrowding. Schools are the same. Keep in mind, "Where we tend to cluster, we tend to foul our water supply." Wherever you run, people will be clustering again as the Hell breaks.

This is why it is absolutely mandatory you now practice and learn about water purification. Later will be too late! This is also why we are spending so much time on Water! It is going to be a priceless commodity in the very near future as the Planet Earth Rolls; the Sun Roils; the Giant Comet now making its presence felt lightly, and soon predominately. And, we still have The Galactic Plane to contend with.

Faust and Aly, of Chemistry of Water Treatment, 2nd Edition, also state:

"Other descriptors are 'septic odors' frequently associated with an abundance of blue-green algae, and 'chlorophenolic, iodoform, and medicinal,' from chlorination of algae metabolites.

"It is hypothesized that blue-green algae are a nutrition source for the actinomycetes, whose population peaks after the blue-green population begins to decline. Bacterial decomposition of the algae and actinomycete residues apparently releases odorous material to the water."

Fishy odors have also been reported from the odor of dimethyl sulfide at low concentrations. These are low-molecular weight amines as methylamine and ethylamine.

Inorganic Compounds dissolved in water can create a negative organoleptic sensation to the brain's senses of pleasure. The water may impart a 'mineral' taste or a metallic taste that registers with one as 'bitter.' Corrosion of iron or copper pipes as well as iron or copper in the surface water one uses to process potable water can cause an unacceptable taste. More often than not, the consumer of water judges potable water by its taste. As you well-know by now, water may smell and taste normal, but could be loaded with 'filth.'

We have found that with stored water, when tested potable, the water had an insipid flat taste. When the water was poured back and forth from one clean container to another, a form of aeration of the stored water, it appeared to be more drinkable to the senses and the insipid, flat taste was no longer as prominent or was even gone. It is also believed the flat taste can be due to mineral salts present.

However, the 'mind trick' may just be the 'trick' you need to help get through this insipid water. For the research demonstrates that this does not occur. That is, the flat, insipid taste of water is not due to a low content of dissolved oxygen (DO) present. Various 'Survival Books' out there purport this increase of dissolved oxygen 'relieves' the water of its flat, insipid taste. It doesn't! The research points out "The individual judge's ability to differentiate between the two contents of DO in distilled water and in 1000 mg/L NaCl (table salt) at temperatures of 0 and 220 C" just does not exist.

"These data led to the conclusion that DO content had little, if any, effect on the taste of drinking water."— Ibid., p. 114. This has also been confirmed by Pangborn and Bertlolero in Pangborn, R. M., and L. L. Bertolero, J. Am. Water Works Assoc., 64:511 (1972).

The removal of odors and tastes has been refined and become sophisticated over years of 'trial and error.' We recommend, as given previously in the May 1, 2011 Update Issue, and here, Aeration, SuperChlorination, Coagulation which is analogous to, for our purposes, Flocculation, Sedimentation, Filtration, and Chlorination again. Test for amount of chlorine and pH. Filter again through GAC if chlorine presents with a strong smell and test.

At the Coagulation (Flocculation) stage, add 0.3 to 1.5 mg/L potassium permanganate to 1-gal of raw water. For approximately 1 gallon of raw water, add about 1/8 teaspoon potassium permanganate (KMnO4). This removes odors and eliminates off-taste. If your water turns pink, you have added too much potassium permanganate. This is the unreacted KMnO4 that results in the pink color from adding too much of this chemical. Observe box warning sign on the bottle. KMnO4 prevents BOM from reacting with chlorine to form trihalomethanes, a carcinogen. I want this removed. However, using KMnO4 is considered optional by some.

Aeration:

This is the process of bringing water into intimate contact with air or vice-
versa. The purpose is to exchange gases from the water phase to the air phase and from the air phase to the water phase.

"'Aeration' is still another way to remove tastes and smells. The idea is to expose as much water to as much oxygen as possible. The process eliminates even the sulfur-water odor caused by the presence of hydrogen sulfide.

"Surface water is treated quite practically with aeration. Fast-running streams and pond spillways are points of natural aeration." — The Home Water Supply, Stu Campbell.

The Chemistry of Water Treatment, 2nd Edition, Faust and Aly, write:

1. Exchange of gases from the air to the water. The process is used mainly for introducing oxygen into the water (oxygenation) for oxidation of reduced species such as sulfides or iron and manganese. The latter is the most widely used application....

2. Exchange of gases from the water into the air. This process is commonly referred to as Stripping, and includes:

•	Removal of hydrogen sulfide from certain groundwaters for taste and odor control.

•	Removal of carbon dioxide from waters to reduce the demand for lime in the lime softening treatment and for raising the pH of waters in iron and manganese removal.

•	Removal of volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) from waters. This process gained rapid acceptance during the past decade as a result of the discovery of the presence of many of these compounds in natural waters, specifically ground waters.

Certain gases are suitable for stripping and others are not. Those that are, such as hydrogen sulfide (H2S; the rotten egg odor), ammonia, chlorine, carbon dioxide, especially hydrogen sulfide aeration is facilitated if acid is added to the water to be mixed with air. "The pH of the solution determines the total sulfide species as well as the free hydrogen sulfide gas.

As acid is added, the hydrogen ion concentration is increased, the reaction is shifted to the left, and the amount of free gas is increased." — Ibid.

This latter means you form more hydrogen sulfide because, as a gas and water react together, in this case, H2S, undergoes hydrolysis and ionic species dissolved in water are formed; but, we want to get rid of one of those species containing sulfur and turn it back into H2S; so that it can then be aerated off as much as possible.

In other words, "In removal of hydrogen sulfide (H2S) from water by Air Stripping, only that portion of the total sulfide that is hydrogen sulfide can be stripped." Not its specie formation HS–. — Ibid.

Aeration Methods:

Diffused Aeration is the process whereby water and air bubbles are brought into contact together. You can do this easily if you have a source of energy, electricity, in this case and a small, hand-held or a little larger compressor pump. Simply connect a hose to one end; place the other end into a batch of water and turn on the compressor. You will almost immediately see bubbles rising as the air is being forced into the water. Move the hose around periodically and continue this diffused aeration process for 15 to 30 minutes.

Compressed air released from the bottom of your container hose mixes nicely with the raw water that has been surface-skimmed in your mixing or contact chamber. One way that your WebMasters prefer is to place holes in a long clear plastic tubbing and 'snake' the tubing around a small plastic wading pool filled with raw water, and the other end attached to the air compressor. This necessitates having about 10 feet of 3/4 inch tubing. This eliminates having to move the tubing or hose around in the container or mixing chamber (wading pool).

Spray Aeration (Click Spray Aeration To See Video) is the process whereby water is sprayed into the air by a 2-gallon home garden sprayer. Adjust the nozzle end such the water emits from the pumped-up sprayer as you aim it into a high arc, a fine stream emerges and starts, as it is still rising to its highest point in the arc, separating into a steady stream of small to half-pea to pea-size drops, and falls into a collection tank (small toddler's plastic wadding pool in this case), the water now broken into a string of drops are providing a high area-to-volume ratio for very efficient transfer of gasses. Again, the water is one medium; the air another; and we have a Mass Transfer of a gas(es) that are volatile from the aqueous phase into the gaseous phase. You have applied Henry's Law of Gasses and Boyle's Law also, without having the knowledge of these laws for Mass Transfer.

However, let us caution, the finer the bubbles, as one directs the sprayer nozzle vertically (you would get wet) or at an incline high arc—the best for you—the contact time of water to air is increased, and this is important too. You want to increase the drop diameter of the drops to the air. That is, the longer the fine drops of water stay in the air, the more stripping you do!

Nozzles of the hollow cone type, rifle nozzles, centrifugal nozzles, and impinging, rotating, and reaction nozzles are best. What comes in your home garden sprayer will approximate the first type or the rifled type nozzles.

The nozzle's dispersion action will determine the drop size and therefore, the air volume ratio.

Cascade Aerators are such when the raw water (cleared of debris) is directed to flow down an incline or a series of steps causing the water, as it falls, to go from one level to another to the bottom of the cascade aerator, gas exchange occurs. The water traverses over thin, sinusoidal layers of incline or steps from one level to the next until it is collected in a basin. We recommend, again, a plastic wadding pool for the collection tank or basin.

As you increase the number of steps of the incline, the mass transfer time for exposure is increased, and the area-volume ratio is increased. If you put baffles for turbulence creation along the incline run, the area-volume ratio is increased.

This type of aerator is used mainly in the transfer of gas(s), for instance, carbon dioxide, to the air. But, not all gasses make it to the air phase.

That is where the Granulated Activated Charcoal (Carbon) comes in and removes a small amount, thus, making your removal of gasses acceptable in terms of taste and odors.

The following is from the Fourth Edition, Chemical/Biological WarFare: How You Can Survive: By Drs. Brocato & King with permission:

Method B—Incline Cascade Aeration:

This is the method the authors call the Washboard Effect of Aeration. This method is simpler and easier for most women to use. You want a surface at an incline plane at 60 to 90 degrees as this is important.

The surface must have a transversely corrugated face or surface, 1 inch in diameter, and a sinusoidal surface.

This is simply a ridge and trough that alternates from ridge to trough. The easiest way to build this is simply to get standard fiberglass corrugated, semicircular, 1 inch in diameter, and sinusoidal (alternate ridge-trough) section(s) for sun roofs. Get one 8' 1" x 26" w and one 5' 1" x 26" w.

Cut it every 2' (24–in) down the length—use tin snip scissors. Turn it 90 degrees and nail or glue the cut pieces to your incline, so there is a continuous Washboard Effect down the incline surface, taking care to assure that each cut section overlaps the preceding section down the incline. You want it at least 8 to 16 ft long and 2 ft wide. We made ours 8 ft long and 2 ft wide. The research test board was 16 ft long by 2 ft wide.

Pour the gallon plus water slowly down the fiberglass ridge and trough incline. Collect in a large baking pan or wader pool. Repeat this several times.

Utilizing one of the immediate above methods, you have vaporized volatile organic chemicals (VOC); removed carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide from water, to the air; and added oxygen to the water for removal of iron and manganese, to be removed through coagulation (flocculation) and/or sedimentation, under home–made conditions; thus, removing a strain on your activated charcoal filter. You have also removed a considerable amount of odors, and possibly killed numerous micro–organisms with the flocculation performed and filtered out.

Under a municipal, professional system with adjusted pH, etc., even then, they do not get all of the VOCs.

Unless you have the time, money, and expertise to own and identify organic compounds in raw and finished waters by owning expensive nuclear magnetic resonance and mass spectrometry (spectrophotometer, an instrument that measures the degree of turbidity) instruments as well as gas–liquid chromatographic instruments too, then you do not know with certainty which contaminants are being removed by just one or two modalities from your water when you clarify.

Therefore, you should practice:

A.	Aeration and Stripping,

B.	Coagulation (flocculation) Processes,

C.	Sedimentation,

D.	Filtration,

E.	Distillation, and Adsorption using Granular Activated Carbon, GAC.

For none of these removes everything using them separately. By using the combination above, one mode removes one or more things well; whereas, the other removes poorly, and vice–versa. The combination we have given here gives the best removal of contaminants that the average person can have access to. —Source: Hamann, C.L., Jr., et al., Chapter 3 in Water Quality and Treatment, 4th ed.

As given earlier, "Most of the odors caused by organic substances in drinking waters are not volatile enough to be removed effectively by aeration. The principal volatile odorous compound in many groundwaters is hydrogen sulfide gas, which imparts a characteristic rotten egg smell. Since hydrogen sulfide is a reactive gas, the aeration process will only remove that portion of the gas that is in the gaseous state. The reaction of hydrogen sulfide with water results in the formation of HS- and S2- species.

"However, it is important to repeat that the oxidation of HS- is pH-
dependent. At pH values less than 6.0, the oxidation reaction is very slow where H2S is the predominant species. As the pH value is increased above 6.0, the oxidation rate increases rapidly, reaching a maximum between pH 8 and 8.5.

"The net result of the removal of hydrogen sulfide by aeration is that a portion will be stripped off and a fraction will be oxidized, depending on the pH conditions of the water." — Chemistry of Water Treatment, 2ND Edition, Faust & Aly. Any methods we have just discussed under aeration is sufficient for hydrogen sulfide removal...but, not all, as it becomes oxidized. Therefore, this is what you do:

For Hydrogen Sulfide Detection:

If your 'nose' test shows hydrogen sulfide present, it is a gas, push more hydrogen sulfide to the left of the equation:

H2S + H20 H3O+ + HS-

by making the raw water more acid, but this demands pH sticks and testing. However, if your nose betrays you, and you have made various tests, make the water acid, if not already, acid, by adding vinegar, or ReaLemon 100 % Lemon Juice. Or, we prefer to add powdered vitamin C and/or citric acid.

Note:

If you by perchance have hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid, very strong acids, "Always add acid to water slowly, not water to acid. Remember This!

And always use goggles and gloves for protection when even adding the above acids.

Stir; let rest for a few minutes; test pH. It should be around 4 to 5. And if hydrogen sulfide is present in an oxidized species, it will be released to form more hydrogen sulfide gas. It will smell like rotten eggs! You can't miss it. The smell of 'rotten eggs' will waft up from the stirring.

Also, chlorine works best at a lower pH, that is, a pH of acid, such as 4 to 5, in killing pathogenic microbial species.

Caution: Be warned that hydrogen sulfide, H2S, is highly flammable. This is what Hawley's Condensed Chemical Dictionary, Fourteenth Edition says:

"Hazard: Highly flammable dangerous fire risk, explosive limits in air 4.3-46%. Toxic by inhalation, strong irritant to eyes and mucous membranes."

And this is what Oxford Dictionary of Chemistry, New Edition writes:

"Hydrogen sulphide is exceedingly poisonous (more toxic than hydrogen cyanide)."

Therefore, as The Great Event occurs, you may come upon an area in a dell, valley, forest enclosed area with heavy brush, and a small river, lake, or some means of water, follow your nose! As the seas and oceans move and rearrange themselves from the Earth Roll, they may be locked off areas from blowing wind, such that hydrogen sulphide just sits there in a dell, valley, or on an area of water, enclosed by dense vegetation or rocks. If you begin to get a wafting odor of rotten eggs, the characteristic odor of hydrogen sulfide, and your eyes and mucous membranes of the nose, eyes, mouth, and throat begin to burn—get out of there! That is not where you want to garner your water from. You could become very sick and die there, as this gas is very toxic and it just may explode if an ignition source comes about.

If the water you garner has some of this odor, but you are not burning in the mucous membranes of the eyes, nose, mouth and throat, and do decide to process the water in a shed or some kind of enclosure without good ventilation, you could generate an explosion if an ignition source is brought to bear on the situation in such an enclosure.

Therefore, follow your nose! And be careful. For:

Iron (Fe) and Manganese (Mn) Detection:

After performing the above for H2S detection and removal; this then necessitates, after using a manganese and iron dip stick, and receiving a positive test for either one, then make the raw water basic. You want a higher—not lower—pH. You want the pH, around 9.5 plus. Add Ca(OH)2, which is Slaked Lime, spoken of earlier. This is done by adding Calcium Oxide (CAO) to the water to form Slaked Lime. Add approximately a tablespoon per gallon of raw water (see specific amount above in document). Stir; test for pH. It should become basic. If not, add a little more of the Anhydrous Lime, which is Calcium Oxide (CaO). The iron and manganese will be caught in the turbid

water forming gelatinous particles known as floc. Stir, let rest 30 minutes; pour through toweling.

What is the ingredient that kills children when they get hold of a vitamin bottle and take the whole bottle? The ingredient that causes the trouble is iron. What is one of the biggest things that all microbes use to continue their life cycle? It is iron. What is it scientists, such as the one writing this document, have advocated for men after they finish their growth cycle at 25 years of age?

Donate blood to remove excess iron. If you are not a woman with periods, or a man with bleeding ulcers or heavily bleeding polyps or hemorrhoids, or a bleeding cancer, you have no way of getting rid of the excess iron that is continuously coming into your diet. Everything has iron put in it now, and it is this particular, very important mineral that is considered to be detrimental in bringing about heart disease, as well as various microbial growths in excess throughout an organism.

We give this little bit so that you can see how important it is to remove that excess iron, because once the body has finished its growth, it has no way of getting rid of the iron.

It uses it as it is growing, but then it tends to accumulate gradually, creating problems that tests won't even show unless you have iron hemochromatosis, iron overload in the blood.

You read in Part II of this series about manganism. It is so subtle, it is probably one of the factors which is affecting neural tissues in humans nowadays. You want to make sure you get this removed, too, from your drinking water. As you remove iron and manganese, you will also be removing other heavy metals. But, this will only be from Fair (40 to 70%) to Poor (0 to 20%) with alum use and poor with GAC use.

Therefore, you need a combination of methods. Distillation would be excellent if pre and post-test indicate heavy metals left over. Lead is excellently removed with alum. So get your buckets together, place in storage what this Water Series has been talking about, and be ready to survive this extreme hardship now breaking over our heads. And learn how to distill water.

"Radon is a water-soluble radioactive gas that is naturally occurring in many groundwaters. The removal of radon from waters, like many other soluble gases, can be readily achieved by aeration." — Ibid. This is given because of where you may find yourself after the waters come, the earth roll, etc., and where you had to run to avoid the calamities.

Heat Shield To Conserve Heat Sources & Energy

And if you are serious about your water, out-of-doors; or, indoors, and your heat source(s) is/are still available inside/outside your domicile, you should have a means of concentrating your heat.

•	Outdoors, the wind will not blow (remove) your radiant heat from whatever source, as it is concentrated to your cooking and/or distilling. Normally, without shielding, you spend more precious fuel trying to get the food hot enough to cook and destroy pathogenic organisms.

And, when you distill or boil raw water for processing, the same principle applies in that less fuel is wasted and more fuel energy goes into the cooking pot and/or distillation unit!

•	Inside, if your gas and/or electricity is still up after The Great Event! You will keep it cooler indoors as the heat is concentrated to a smaller area, and not waste resources that will become more and more in short shrift. We cook like this now with our pressure cooker and it takes less heat and stays cooler in the room where the cooking and water practice processing is occurring! We also have noticed, by measuring the outdoors gas meter cubit feet usage, it takes less heat; this means less money for cooking from fuel usage.

•	The Heat Shield you see in the video has been in use since 1998! We have two of them; one has never been used. It is At The Ready for the run bag. We do not advocate, as sometimes indicated on the plastic wrap that each comes in, that it can be used as a cutting board. This dulls the knife and can put grooves into the aluminum serving as an etching for possible oxidation (rust) and deterioration. You will not regret getting this item if you have the pressure cooker we suggested!

•	Watch this Here! Then, order The Home MarketPlace Splatter Aluminum Shield Here! It is reasonably priced ($9.99 plus Shp. & Hdl.) and saves much on energy and waste.

The E-Still

Distillation Unit

For Surface/Ground/Sea Water

These units are no longer being manufactured. We suggest you look on Ebay.

In Water Basics & More: Part IV, we discuss the E-Still more in depth, as well as water distillation.

Read Friday, May 20, 2011, The Kong Special Report: Water Distillation.

Distillation In An Emergency

An Expedient Method

Using Your Presto 6-Quart Pressure Cooker

As

A Distillation Unit

Caution: Do not totally lock, fully close, the lid (cover) in place. Leave the gasket on lid; lock the pressure cooker lid just barely to hold it in place onto the pressure cooker body. See pages 4, 6 of your manual It is not locked but just a fraction of an inch. The handles are not parallel to each other, as when locked. The top handle is moved just 1/8 of an inch to the bottom handle, when you feel a slight resistance. This keeps the lid from vibrating off, and at the same time allows the lid to ventilate removing the Volatile Organic Chemicals/Compounds from the boiling water.

Practice, and do not lock the lid in place. This allows you to raise the lid without getting a 'blow-back' of super-heated steam and water onto your person. You can check periodically the water level by raising the lid farthest from you up, and the lid portion closest to you remains down; then if you did have the lid locked too much, superheated steam moves away from you.

To understand this procedure best, you should have been cooking with your pressure cooker for months by now and following the instructions, every time as given in the manual after cooling and no pressure is still in the pressure cooker.

Remember! Always lift the cover area farthest from you up at an angle such that it is tilted up with the remaining cover still in contact with the pressure cooker body. See page 11 of your Presto 6-quart Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker manual. If the cover is stuck, you have either locked it in place and/or there is too much internal pressure still available. Let it cool!

When thoroughly cool, and no more pressure evident, remove lid (cover) as given above. We strongly suggest not to do this until you have practiced with your pressure cooker cooking frozen meat; regular beans, rice dishes, and other items of interest in the Presto Manual for at least three to four months on a several times a week basis.

This will teach you how to lock and release the lid properly; how to cool the pressure cooker, and other safety items of necessity. You Have Been Warned!

Items Needed:

1.	Presto 6-quart Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker.

2.	Five (5) to (6) feet of clear, thick plastic hose; adjust to desired length.

3.	Inside diameter of plastic hose, 3/8 inch inside diameter (IO).

4.	One-fourth (1/4) inch adjustable hose clamp (screw-down type).

5.	Several Ball Canning Jars. They are heat tempered. Do not use just any jar, such as a peanut butter or an ordinary jam and jelly jar.

6.	Heat Source. If using out-of-doors, you must raise the Cooker periodically to keep from over heating. Keep a low boil; hence, have the Cooker elevated on bricks, etc. to keep this type of boil. If you chance doing pressure cooking, the heat will get too high and possibly explode the pressure cooker because the pressure regulator probably cannot get rid of that much pressure on an ongoing basis. However, you have an over pressure plug and will not be using the Pressure Regulator, for distillation. It is not advisable to pressure cook outdoors on just any heat source. Read all the instructions for heat sources not acceptable. This will limit your pressure cooking to the sources listed here. For distillation, you will not fasten the 3/8-inch IO hose tightly. The latter automatically negates using the pressure regulator. We like to have some steam venting from here also. The main problem is not to get your boiler too hot and cause possible damage to the boiler pot, if you distill on another non-recommended heat source outdoors. The directions say to not use any other type of heat source than regular gas, electric coil, or ceramic glass (smoothtop) ranges.

But, necessity is the Mother of Invention, and we will want potable water, therefore, we have just used an outdoor heat source, did not, cannot use—would not use—the pressure regulator. We adjusted the boiler height periodically to keep the heat source low and the water boiling and venting through the sides of the Cover Top.

Canning Distilled Water For Indefinite Periods Of Time!

(Watch Video First)

Buy The Canning Jars By The Case

Here's how you do it. Simply distill the water after doing the other procedures (pH testing, Coagulation/Flocculation, SuperChlorination, Sedimentation, Aeration, Filtration, and Distillation). Filtration may be left off if distillation is performed; however, we prefer to do it all for safety; yet, due to expediency measures, all you may be able to do is distill raw water.

Using a 1-quart Ball Canning jars, having the jars, lids, and rings (Bands) washed in hot sudsy, clean, bleach added, water, rinse and leave in hot water. Removing one jar at a time with lid and ring, place disinfected distillation hose into jar. Distill. When jar is filled one inch from top, remove hose, and place into another jar, being careful not to cross-contaminate hose in the process.

Then, quickly place lid on filled hot distilled water in canning jar. Tighten the ring loosely, but not tight. Test the top. It should bounce up and down when pressing on it. Set aside for 12 to 24 hours. When cool, the center part of the lid has been sucked down concavely into the jar a small amount. It no longer can be pressed and bounce back up. Then, carefully hold the jar at an angle; you should see no bubbles forming; else it did not seal completely. It is still good to use. If no bubbles form, indicating no leak, then carefully hold it by the top of the lid with one hand as the other is held closely under the jar to protect it if the lid did not seal throughly and comes off.

The vacuum formed as the water and jar cools, holds the lid down and secures it to the top of the canning jar with vacuum pressure. Affix the canning ring to the jar and tighten until just snug. This is to protect the lid from being banged and jarred loose. You now have distilled and canned water for 12 months to almost indefinitely.

This is not pressure canning tap water already considered potable. This is for when you have no pure water. Therefore, you distill first. Especially if it is salt water. Pressure canning salt water will not remove the salt! Distillation will. And there is going to be plenty of salt water around, in many to most fresh water lakes, rivers, streams and creeks.

Note:

Water Basics & More: Part V will not cover What To Do; nor, How To Do It; but, primarily cover Awareness of Water.

Note:

If you have to use your Aqua Rain or Big Berkey, then to save on its ceramic filters, as things get rougher, and you go to distillation and filtration methods given in this document, dry out the units. Disinfect with unscented bleach from a spray bottle solution (potable water plus bleach), let rest for 15 to 30 minutes, then dry thoroughly or let air dry out of wind and dust and drafts.

For your ceramic filters, saturate with Colloidal Silver, let air dry, as above, away from dust, drafts, etc., and store properly in a labeled box so you can start with these first, when you are forced to increase your water supply. The Colloidal Silver will serve as a bacteriostatic to hold in check any bacteria from growing in your filters, until they dry out. When saturated with the Silver, it will also kill pathogenic organisms.

Make your own using a Colloidal Silver Generator! Or buy from your local health food store that helps you with knowledge and staying alive!

Where is all this sea water coming from? The Earth Roll! See below illustrating this:

Inundation!

Inundation II!

And Just Before The Inundations, The Rocks Fall!

Kong Here Folks!

Dr. "B" is often asked, "Why should we believe any of this, or The Kong Reports about Pole Shifts, The Galactic Plane, Inundations, Volcanoes, Earthquakes, and so-forth?"

His answer: "You shouldn't! Read, study, and filter it through the scriptures, and study the science." Dr. "B" has seen what has come to be known as The Third Secret of Fatima, and was covered in his book: The Two Fold Chastisement: Visions of The Coming Earth Changes. He says, "It bears and supports what Karol Józef Wojtyla, Pope John Paul II said:

The Third Secret of Fàtima

At Fàtima, three secrets were given. The Third secret was never made public by the Vatican, the official residence of the Roman Catholic Pontiff in Vatican City. Sister Lúcia dos Santos, the surviving seer who is now a Carmelite nun, was given this secret October 13, 1917. She was told to make this secret known to the world; but, after seeing the harsh contents of it, she thought better and sought the advice of the Pope at that time. He, too, considered it so harsh and overwhelming that he refrained from releasing it. His successors have done likewise.

When Pope John Paul II, in November 1980, visited Fulda, Germany, he was questioned about the Third Fàtima secret. His alleged response to a small gathering of German Catholics was reported in Stimmes des Glaubens, a German magazine. The Pope said:

Because of the seriousness of its content, in order not to encourage the world–wide power of Communism to carry out certain coups, my predecessors and the Chair of Peter have diplomatically preferred to withhold this publication.

On the other hand, it should be sufficient for all Christians to know this much: if there is a message in which it is said that the oceans will flood entire sections of the earth; that, from one moment to another, millions will perish, there is no longer any point in really wanting to publish this secret message.

After the Holy Father had made his comments to the German magazine, he took hold of his Rosary and said:

Here is the remedy against the evil. Pray, pray and ask for nothing else. Put everything in the hands of the Mother of God. We must be prepared to undergo great trials in the not–too–distant future.

Trials that will require us to be ready to give up even our lives. And a total gift of self to Christ and for Christ.

Two thousand years ago, and before then, they knew a lot about astronomy. It is reputed that Adam and his sons named the constellations. Jesus' disciples asked Him about 'The End of An Age!' They knew it was for our time. Modern day Bibles interpret this as, ...end of the 'world.' However, the true meaning is for an age that will end. They wanted to know what will the signs be. They knew they would not be living then; we would, however, and they wanted to know. Jesus tells them in Matthew 24, Mark 13, and Luke 21, about 'The End of An Age!' And this is what we are now undergoing.

For The Science!

Every 25,800 years, rounded off to 26,000 years, the solar system goes through The Galactic Plane. We are now at the End of An Age! The time has come as we move into The Galactic Plane and out of it again. This is what Christ's disciples wanted to know about. They knew, intuitively, it would be a time of great upheaval.

After this age is ended, the new age begins, then in 26,000 years, again, it happens once more.

As given above,

Therefore, you should practice:

A.	Aeration and Stripping,

B.	Coagulation (flocculation) Processes,

C.	Sedimentation,

D.	Filtration,

E.	Distillation, and Adsorption using Granular Activated Carbon, GAC.

As you follow the above list, incorporate the modalities given throughout this document for enhanced, pure, potable (drinking and cooking) water, including what you have learned from Part I and Part II.

There Will be plenty of Sea Water Around—Distill!

Additional References:

1.	An Introduction To Chemistry for Biology Students, Sixth Edition, George I. Sackheim. Addison Wesley Longman, Inc.

2.	Basic Medical Biochemistry: A Clinical Approach, Marks, Marks, Smith. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

3.	Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Third Edition, Elliott & Elliott. Oxford University Press.

4.	Chemistry: The Unending Frontier, J. Arthur Campbell, Goodyear Publishing Company, Inc. Santa Monica, California.

5.	Cell and Molecular Biology: Concepts and Experiments, Gerald Karp. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. New York.

6.	Chemistry: The Molecular Science, Second Edition, Olmsted III and Williams. Wm. C. Brown Publishers.

7.	Dictionary of Geological Terms, Prepared under the direction of the American Geological Institute. Dolphin Books, Doubleday & Co., Inc.

8.	First–Year College Chemistry, John R. Lewis, Barnes & Noble, Inc. New York.

9.	Food Microbiology: An Introduction, Second Edition, Montville & Matthews. ASM Press.

10.	Global Handbook On Food And Water Safety: For The Education of Food Industry Management, Food Handlers, and Consumers, Leon, Meacham, Claudio. Charles C. Thomas, Springfield, Illinois.

11.	Hawley's Condensed Chemical Dictionary, Fourteenth Edition, Richard J. Lewis Sr. Wiley Interscience, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

12.	Infectious Diseases Handbook, Including Antimicrobial Therapy & Diagnostic Tests/Procedures, 2nd Edition. Lexi-Comp's Clinical Reference Library.

13.	Instant Notes In Biochemistry, Hames, Hooper, Houghton. Bios Scientific Publishers

14.	Jacobs & DeMott Laboratory Test Handbook With Key Word Index: 5th Edition, Jacobs, Demott, Oxley. Lexi-Comps Clinical Reference Library.

15.	Modern Concepts In Biochemistry, Fourth Edition, Robert C. Bohinski, John Carroll University. Allyn & Bacon, Inc.

16.	Modern Food Microbiology: Seventh Edition, Jay, Loessner, & Golden. Food Science Text Series.

17.	Oxford Dictionary of Biochemistry & Molecular Biology, Oxford University Press.

18.	Oxford Dictionary of Science, Oxford University Press.

19.	Patty's Industrial Hygiene and Toxicology: Vol. III, Part B. 3rd. Edition.

Crally, Crally, and Bus. Wiley InterScience.

20.	Reviewing Chemistry, Maxwell Gelender, AMSCO School Publications, Inc.

21.	The Chemistry of Matter, James B. Pierce. Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston.

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